Categories
General FI

Financial Independence: Why pursue it?

BLUF: Our time on this earth is limited and not in our control when we have to work. Financial independence is a way to give us back control over our time and giving ultimate freedom.

Independent (adjective): not subject to another’s authority or jurisdiction; autonomous; free.

Dictionary.com

Americans love the idea of freedom. We love the idea that we have control over our lives having the power to choose what we want to do with our lives and how we spend our time. But most of us aren’t really free. We’re slaves to one necessity in life: money.

We need food, shelter and clothing as basic necessities to live and most of us exchange money to get them. Then there are the “wants” on top of the needs. Elaborate housing, fancy cars, exotic vacations, latest tech gadgets and luxury fashion goods. As the spending goes up, the debts and income needs go up. You’re trapped in that job to pay for that lifestyle of wants.

Lifestyle inflation and spending keeps you chained to your job longer.
Photo by Dziana Hasanbekava on Pexels.com

And what are we ultimately offering up to get that money via our job? Our time. Time is one thing in life that we have a finite amount of left but we don’t know the amount. We could have decades, years, months or just days left and none of us know exactly. If you have days left and you’re spending it reading this blog then I’m truly honored. And confused. Or both.

Until you no longer need to work for money, you are missing a special type of independence that traditionally has been thought of for the 60+ crowd and the really rich. Until that point you can’t go to the park whenever you choose to. You can’t take a vacation without asking the permission of someone else. You are living on someone else’s schedule.

Financial Independence: What is it?

Financial Independence is a point where you’ve built a money machine large enough to work in place of you and pay for your life. Your money and investments are working for you, 24/7, making money so you can do what you want with your time. Sounds much cooler than a money tree, doesn’t it?

Money machine
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Financial Independence with a Portfolio

How much does this money machine need to make? Well, now that you’re tracking your spending you know what life costs you to live right now. A retirement planning study was done at Trinity University, which has since become known as “The Trinity Study,” showed that a 75% stock, 25% bond portfolio had a 98% chance of not running out of money after 30 years if you withdraw 4% a year. This also accounts for inflation adjusted withdrawals.

This has developed into what people refer to as the “4% rule” of thumb. Make a portfolio that is large enough so that you can cover your expenses by withdrawing 4% a year and you have an extremely high chance of success over 30 years. That’s because the stock market returns roughly 8% a year on average over the history of it. 8% returns – 4% withdrawals – 2-3% inflation > 0. On average, your stock investments grow faster than you can spend them accounting for inflation. That’s why this works.

How do you figure this out for yourself? Divide what you spend in a year by 4% or multiply it by 25 (1/.04). If you spend $60,000 a year: $60,000 / 0.04 = $1,500,000. $60,000 * 25 = $1,500,000. This portfolio size based on the 4% rule is what people refer to as your “FI number”.

What’s magical about this is that you have the power to change this amount DRASTICALLY by your spending. Say you make some smart choices and are able to live on $50,000 a year? You’ve just reduced how much you need by $250,000 to $1,250,000! That’s taking years off your working life. Want to do some geo-arbitrage and retire in cheaper Mexico or southeast Asia? Maybe then you can live on $40,000 / year and retire with $1,000,000

Financial Independence with a Business

The FI concept can be achieved just the same with a business as it can with a portfolio. Business can mean a variety of things beyond opening up another Subway in the neighborhood. An online store is a business. A YouTube channel can be a business. Real estate can be a business. You don’t need to invent a product or build the next Google to reach FI. You just need income streams that exceed your expenses.

Real Estate is a particularly popular business vehicle to reach FI in the community. Say your personal expenses are $60,000/year. If you can make a rental provide you with $500 a month in income after all expenses, that’s $6,000 a year. Build up 10 rentals over the years that cash flow the same? You’re now bringing in $60,000 a year covering all your expenses and you’ve reached FI. The only work required is managing those properties. If that $500 profit already includes paying for a management company then you don’t even need to do that.

FI versus FIRE

The more popular term floating around the media is actually FIRE – Financial Independence Retire Early. It’s a lot more exciting for people to talk about FIRE because on the surface the idea of quitting your job before 65 or 60 sounds appealing.

On this blog you won’t hear me talk about FIRE much because I never really plan to stop working. Change my career along the way? Quite possibly. Stop traditional office work? Certainly. But I’ll always seek out work that adds meaning to my life. It’s part of the reason I’ve started spending so many hours writing this blog.

outdoor fireplace during nighttime
Photo by Matheus Bertelli on Pexels.com

More to the Financial Independence story

Don’t get me wrong, the 4% rule of thumb is a simplification of the total story and I encourage you to learn more. When you get closer to your “number” you need to make sure to take into account taxes, changes in spending and healthcare costs just to name a few things. It’s a target to work towards though. Something that’s easy to wrap your arms around.

Don’t feel bad if you’ve never heard of financial independence or that the being able to retire early is within reach for the middle class. Nobody talks about the idea that your retirement age and how much you need is tied to your spending. Here’s a retirement calculator from AARP and it’s typical of the common approach that you’ll find. Notice that the question is “At what age do you plan on stop working?” Whaaaaaaat? They’re asking you for the answer to the problem that you want to solve: When can I retire? People need a calculator to tell them what age they can stop working given their saving and spending. I think it would be pretty eye opening to many if they realized they could stop working much earlier if they spent less money. A famous FI blogger, Mr. Money Mustache, has a beautiful article on this concept called “The shockingly simple math behind early retirement.”

Credit AARP.com – https://www.aarp.org/work/retirement-planning/retirement_calculator.html

Here’s another retirement calculator example from a large investment company. In this case they assume that you saved spent 85% of your income and saved 15% to get to retirement. In retirement you stop saving and the spending stays the same.

Saving rate of 15%? Only if you want to live like everyone else.

Financial Independence: Why pursue it?

I started this post talking about FI really being about time. Time is a funny thing in that the older you get, the more valuable it becomes to us. It’s the one commodity that you can’t really buy more of so as you age you value the time you have much more so than you did when you were young and weren’t worried about death. It’s not a linear relationship, it’s an exponential one.

value of our time over a lifetime

Since we trade our time for money, the inverse value relationship is true with money. The older we get, the less we value the time for money trade. That’s one reason Warren Buffet once said in his 80’s that he’d trade all his wealth to be 25 years old again.

The traditional path is to work until you reach age 67 and then hope your mind and body haven’t degraded too much to enjoy the years that you have left in your life. In the US, that’s until 78 on average.

US life expectancy
Source – World Bank http://datatopics.worldbank.org/world-development-indicators

If you assume the last year of your life is probably spent with degrading health issues then that leaves you with 10 good years on average. 10 years of freedom to do whatever you want…if you’re lucky to make it that long. My mom died at 63 of cancer so she didn’t even make average retirement age. That was one catalyst for thinking about how I could live a different life. That’s my “why.” Life is short and you never know when it could abruptly get even shorter.

Yes, I love my job, now. Doesn’t mean I want to work it until 67, or 65, or 60. There’s power in the options that FI money brings and I want to be in the drivers seat to choose my own path.

Discoveries along the journey

The road to accumulating 25x your expenses is long. Even with a 50% savings rate it takes roughly 17 years to be able to retire. But there have been noticeable benefits as my financial security has increased and I’ve learned more about the ways to make things fit the life that I want:

  • 3 month emergency fund – Having 3 months of living expenses means zero stress about any financial speedbumps that life throws at us. Roof needed to be replaced last year, no big deal. Furnace goes this year? Okay.
  • 1 year of expenses – Having a year living expenses to me is the definition of what people call “Fuck You” money. If your employer put you in a situation that you weren’t happy with you can say no. They can fire you or you can walk away and you aren’t worried. You want me to work weekends? No thanks. You need me to work 60 hours next week? Sorry, not interested.
  • Awareness of my budget and spending has put me in control of my finances. I know where the money is going and where I could cut if I had to.
  • Learning and life hacks – I’ve always been a problem solver but now I feel like I have a whole different toolbox of life hacks to draw from to make things easier. Tax optimization, geographic arbitrage, travel rewards, minimalism, time efficiency and many more. Every problem in life I now approach in a completely different way which has been a lot of fun. I question the conventional ways of doing things constantly. I’m excited to share many of these tools as this blog gets larger.
pexels-photo.jpg
Photo by Miguel Á. Padriñán on Pexels.com

Action Steps:

  1. Understand what your expenses are.
  2. Take meaningful steps to reduce expenses that don’t add value to your life. Make goals related to this and track them.
  3. Using this post, calculate your FI number.
  4. Play around with your yearly expenses. How does that change your FI number?
  5. Calculate given your current saving and investing plan, what age you will hit FI. More help coming on this step in the future.

Are you pursuing financial independence? If so, what is your “why” for doing it?

Categories
Expenses

Reduce car insurance : How I saved 44% in 4 months.

BLUF: You can reduce car insurance expenses by reviewing your policy, taking advantage of all savings options, eliminating benefits that you don’t care about and running the math before dismissing options as too “risky”.

Reducing expenses isn’t very sexy. Reducing your car insurance premiums is probably even less so. It’s not like getting a large change in income from a bonus, large pay raise, inheritance or winning the lotto. As I write this, someone is about to have their world turned upside down by winning $1B(!) with mega millions.

However, reducing expenses where you see no value is important. Reducing expenses also doesn’t happen by accident. You don’t wake up on January 1st and realize “damn, I spent $10k less last year!” It requires conscious decisions and the first thing required is to track your spending so you can see where the money goes.

After I reviewed my spending from last year I set a goal to spend less than $55,000 this year. But there’s a catch. I don’t want that reduction in spending to reduce my happiness. If I’m reducing my happiness then I’m sacrificing a long term goal of living a happy life for a short term goal of spending less than $55,000. Which do you think is more important?

How do you reduce spending without reducing happiness? Focus on optimizing your spending around the areas where you just care about functionality. In this example, car insurance. If you have a car, you need car insurance. But aside from having enough insurance to protect your from liability and fix your car in a wreck, do you want to spend anymore money than necessary?

It’s with that thought in mind that I chose to focus on car insurance as one area to try and cut costs over the last year. The list below is actually for a 6 month premium period so the cost is $2,115 for the year. Yikes! I don’t know about you but I sure as hell can think of better ways to spend that kind of money every year. So that’s our starting point. Lets talk about how I was able to reduce that number.

March 2020 Auto Insurance costs (6 months) via Allstate

Reduce car insurance expenses

Here is how I was able to reduce my premiums.

Sold the Corvette – Saved $654/year

You’re probably thinking I’m so full of shit right now. How on earth is selling a sports car that I loved not reducing my happiness? Well, like many Facebook relationship statuses, it’s complicated.

It was a beautiful car with a sweet sounding exhaust making it quite the attention getter. I felt proud to own it and it always felt nice when the car would get compliments. At 430hp it was a rocket ship and I’m still baffled as to how I escaped a speeding ticket in it.

There’s a lot of baggage that came with it though. Mrs. MFI actually didn’t like to ride in it because it was too flashy for her tastes so we didn’t use it at every opportunity. There’s parking far out to prevent door dings and the constant worry about theft and vandalism in public. I thought a front license plate looked stupid on it so I risked a ticket every time I drove it since it’s required in NY and I left it off. The car is so low to the ground that I have to even angle in and out of my own driveway to not scrape the front. You have to “fall” in and out of it as well.

Having a second car creates double the work in dealing with it. A second regististration to get. A second state inspection to get done. More oil changes to get done and of course any repairs on top of that. Did I mention that reasonably priced tires for it were $1,200 a set? I’m fortunate to have a large garage to save on winter storage but it still required work to put it to sleep and then play a game of car Tetris. I know, I know: first world problems. But, it’s still something that I don’t enjoy doing that takes my time and energy every year.

Throw in a pandemic where I was driving substantially less and that was the final straw.

Car Tetris – played every winter in New York

Added DriveWise – Saved $61/year

This is an Allstate OBD-2 device that records your driving data and gives you savings off your insurance based on your driving habits. You get a percentage off your insurance if you drive during safe hours of the day, drive under 80mph and avoid hard braking. How well you do each of those determines how much you save. Mrs. MFI was worried about privacy but I reminded her that our Google home, Alexa and iPhone are already listening to her.

Reduced auto policy coverage to align with my umbrella policy – Saved $24/year

What is an umbrella insurance policy? Umbrella insurance is a broad, catch all insurance policy that kicks in when your other insurance runs out. In this sue-happy world it’s an extra layer of protection between you and financial ruin if little Johnny’s backyard trampoline party results in a serious hurt child. Or if you’re unlucky enough to cause a 5 car pile up on the ride home.

More about umbrella policies here.

Umbrella insurance helped save me money.
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

It turns out that although boring, there’s insight to be gained in reviewing your policy details. Umbrella policies have required underlying insurance limits. For an umbrella policy to kick in and help you are required to keep certain insurance coverage in a separate policy. In the example below, an auto policy with bodily injury coverage of $250,000 each person, $500,000 each occurrence (accident) are required.

Minimum coverage required by my umbrella policy

I was originally paying for $500,000 per person (pp), $1,000,000 each occurrence (eo) in my auto policy and lowered that to match the umbrella minimum requirements at $250k/$500k. I still have great coverage, I just lose a little bit of maximum coverage.

Coverage comparison before and after including umbrella insurance.
Coverage comparison before and after.

The umbrella policy kicks in after the auto policy limits are reached to add an additional $1,000,000 per accident in the case of a $2M policy. It doesn’t care how you split that among individual people.

No, that isn’t a typo. A $2M policy doesn’t give $2M per accident (occurrence), it gives you $2M per year (policy period) in the case of bodily injury and property damage liability. Read and understand your coverage!

Raised deductibles – Saved $192/year

This one might be a bit controversial but I’ll let the math do the talking. I changed our deductibles from $500 to $2,000 for both comprehensive and collision. $2,000 is a big number and many people are scared off before even talking through what that means. Is it more beneficial to take an additional $1,500 in risk? Let’s find out.

Insurance is important because random things can happen and the cost to replace a car or coverage someone’s hospital bills is far more than the cost of insurance. But, if you’re a good driver and you don’t have the worst luck in the world, these incidents should be few and far between. Cars are also getting safer everyday with blindspot monitoring and a variety of ways to prevent accidents from happening.

How much coverage you carry and the deductible gets into risk versus certainty. Your insurance premiums are a certainty. Every year you pay out that money even when nothing happens. It is gone. The deductible is only something that you pay out on a claim that is much more expensive to fix than your deductible. You won’t make a claim on a $600 scratch because you would still have to pay $500 of it with a $500 deductible and your insurance would probably go up.

But how often do major events happen? Well that’s impossible to know for certain but I took an educated guess using our driving history. We have had 2 accidents and 0 comprehensive incidents requiring payouts in each of our 23 years of driving. That’s one every 11.5 years but lets assume 10 years to make the math easy. What will it cost if I have an accident 10 years from now?

$500 deductible: I pay an extra $192/year in premiums plus the $500 deductable when the accident happens. $500+ ($192*10 years) = $2,420.

$2000 deductible: The current premium is the same and I pay $2,000 when the accident happens.

So I save $420 if history repeats. It gets even better though. If I invest that $192/yr premium saved into index funds at a 7% return for 10 years that $1920 turns into $2,600!

In the case of Allstate I actually benefit from a slick perk called deductible rewards. For every year you drive without an accident they reduce your deductible by $100 with it bottoming out at $100 out of pocket for you. Let’s re-run my scenario with that perk factored in.

$500 deductible w/ deductible rewards: I pay an extra $192/year in premiums but the deductible has dropped to $100 from 10 years of safe driving before the accident happens. $100 + ($192*10 years) = $2,020.

$2000 deductible w/ deductible rewards: The current premium is the same. 10 years of safe driving reduced my deductible from $2000 to $1000.

I’ve now saved $1,020 if history repeats. Even without investing the premium saved I will come out ahead as long as we don’t get into an accident any more frequently than 7 years on average.

The reward when you reduce car insurance premiums - money.
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Final Results

All told, I’m going to save $931 a year in insurance based on the changes that I made over the last 4 months. That’s a 44% reduction! The funny thing is, I still haven’t tried the common method of saving money – shopping around for insurance. I have multiple policies and I’ve been happy with my Allstate service so I’ve held off on investigating it but I’ll give that a shot next month. I’m a bit “insuranced out” at the moment.

Final premium after I reduced my car insurance.
January 2021 Premiums and Discounts

Here’s a nice tabular format showing the impact that ear change made to our premiums.

Summary of savings - reducing car insurance.

Action Steps:

  1. READ your policy. Make sure you have the coverage that you think you need. Check what deductibles you have. Are you paying for any features that you don’t care about? Towing? Roadside assistance? Rental reimbursement? Is your car old enough to consider dropping collision?
  2. READ your policy. Are all the features of your cars that can reduce premiums listed? These would be things like safety devices (daytime running lights, anti-lock brakes) and anti-theft devices.
  3. CALL your insurance company and see what kinds of changes could be made to your policy to save you money on your premiums. The things I did are some but are not an exhaustive list. Ask and see what they tell you.
  4. RUN the math on the total cost between higher premium, lower deductible and lower premium, higher deductible. This is a big premium cost driver unless you don’t have collision.

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What have you done to save on your auto insurance?

Categories
General FI

SMARTER goals: Writing and tracking goals for success

man running on black asphalt road
Photo by RUN 4 FFWPU on Pexels.com

BLUF: Making and tracking goals provide direction and accountability to guide your life choices. Make sure goals are SMARTER and within your control to give you the best chance of achieving them!

But first, a confession: I’ve never set personal goals before.

WAIT WAIT, don’t leave! I swear I’m not a nut job making this stuff up on the fly. The irony is that I’ve made individual and team goals in my job for years. However, not once have I sat back when January rolled around and made personal goals for the year.

Why are goals important?

Life is busy and full of things to occupy your time. Working that job, shuttling around your kids, taking care of pets, having fun with friends, binging Netflix and scrolling endlessly through social media just to name some options. It’s not hard to blink, have a year go by, and wonder “what did I do in the last year?”

Enter goals. A goal is something that you want to achieve. It’s an end point that’s important to you. You don’t see soccer players running up and down the field endlessly kicking the ball in random directions do you? Their efforts are focused – towards the goal. Making goals forces you to step back and think about what is important to you. What do you want to accomplish and why? Making and tracking those goals then focuses your efforts in the direction of the things that you want to accomplish.

Setting SMART goals

You may have heard of SMART goals before –Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Time-bound.

One disclaimer about SMART goals is that there are a multitude of different words that have been used for each letter of the acronym. I’m not here to judge which is right or wrong but offer up my preferred words and approach.

  • Specific – The wording of the goal needs to be clear about what you want to accomplish.
  • Measurable – There has to be a way to quantify if you’ve achieved the goal or not. Lose weight is not a measurable goal. Lose 10 pounds is a measurable goal.
  • Achievable – Your goal can be a stretch but it should be something that you are capable of doing. If it’s impossible, how is that going to motivate you to try?
  • Relevant – A goal needs to be aligned with something that you really care about accomplishing. Don’t make an exercise goal if getting in shape isn’t important to you. You have to be honest with yourself here when making your goals.
  • Time Bound – When will you complete the goal? You need to give yourself a deadline or life will happen and nothing will get done.

This page goes into more detail about creating SMART goals if you need a little more help.

Keep things in your control

One big mistake I see is people making goals that are NOT fully in their control. You need to set goals where you control the outcome. “Get promoted to manager of the customer service team in the next year” ticks all the boxes in the SMART criteria, but it’s a bad goal. Why? You don’t have full control over being promoted. You could work your butt off and the company could hire a friend of the CEO instead. A better high level goal would be: “Build all necessary skills and experience in the next year to be promotable to manager of the customer service team.”

Sports goals can be equally difficult to keep in your control. You may want to win your local golf club championship this year as a high level goal, but is that in your control? No, it’s not. You can’t control a professional golfer entering and playing far better than you. No, don’t even think about control things by Tonya Harding them.

Instead, a better high level goal could be “Train and practice to maximize my chances of winning the golf club championship.” This would then be accompanied by sub-goals such as:

  • Practice putting 5 hours a week.
  • Practice chipping 3 hours a week.
  • Play at least one round on the course from the championship tees a week.
  • Average hitting 60% fairways in regulation by the championship.
  • Average hitting 60% greens in regulation by the championship.
silhouette of man playing golf during sunset
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Setting SMARTER Goals

Pursuing FI is about doing things just a little bit better. Why have SMART goals when you can have SMARTER goals? I see your average old acronym and raise you an ER!

You’ve written your SMART goals at the beginning of the year and start working on achieving them. How do you know if you’re on track? Like any good project you need a way to monitor progress and adjust course if needed. Evaluate and Re-Adjust for the win!

  • Evaluate your progress – You need a way to regularly monitor your goals and track your progress. Pick a cadence – weekly, bi-weekly, monthly and track your progress against the goal. This helps keep you accountable and keeps your eye on the prize. You made these goals because they were important to you. Right?
  • Re-Adjust – No goals are perfect and life is full of surprises. After evaluating goals you may realize that a goal you made isn’t achievable. Or a goal that you thought was important to you, isn’t anymore. Or you want to add something new. DO IT! It’s far better to modify goals and keep after it than it is to quit. And if you quit one goal it’s far to easy for that mentality to snowball into other goals. Re-Adjust your goals and keep going.

Action steps:

  1. Think about what you want to accomplish over the next year. Don’t worry about formatting things as goals, just put things in plain English.
  2. If something is a large goal start to break it down into smaller goals. The ManagingFI.com section of my goals really represents a larger goal of “Grow the ManagingFI blog views.” I didn’t know what was possible so I didn’t worry about making the high level goal SMART, I made SMART sub-goals.
  3. Rewrite all goals to make them SMART. Be especially sure that they are measurable, time bound and within your control.
  4. Put your goals into a tracking spreadsheet or some other format where you will be able to track progress.
  5. Decide how often you will review progress against your goals. I will be tracking monthly but that might be too short or too long of an interval for you.
  6. Review progress on that interval. No exceptions. Be honest with the numbers and the progress. If something is falling behind then it either needs to become an area of focus to get it on track or a goal needs to be re-adjusted.
  7. POST your goals someplace where you will see them DAILY. Your office, your desk, your mirror. You need reminders of what you’re working towards to stay on track.

Here is an example of my 2021 goals. Hopefully these will give you some ideas and kick start your effort. As I previously wrote, my spending needs some work so that’s an important goal.

Want this Excel goal setting template? Download here: Thank you to the RetireBy40 blog for the format inspiration.

2021 SMARTER goals example

Did this help you? What is your plan for creating SMARTER goals that you can control?

Categories
Expenses

Reduce spending! 2020 spending recap and 2021 plan

crop payroll clerk counting money while sitting at table
Photo by Karolina Grabowska on Pexels.com

Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF): Reduced spending = faster financial independence. If you want to understand where your money is going to reduce spending then you need to track your spending, summarize, review and take action!

 “What gets measured, gets improved.”

Peter Drucker

In the 1970’s a well known consultant, Peter Drucker, said those words. He was speaking in the application of business but the quote rings true in personal finance. If you want to reduce spending to save more, you have to know where the money is going.

I was never taught to track my spending so I’ve run wild with it my whole life. “Affording” something meant having the credit to buy it and having the payment fit with my paycheck income. I looked at it from a monthly cash flow perspective, not how much it was costing me overall. I don’t remember what made me do it, but after 2018 I decided to look back for the first time in my life at my yearly spending. It was pretty eye opening.

2018 Total Spending – $80,998

2018 was the first year that I sat down at the end of the year to see what I actually spent for the year. I was bit shocked. I bought a used Corvette (2nd car) that I didn’t need and paid $17,000 towards it. I spent close to $6,000 on stuff much due to Amazon! I wasted $600 for a cell phone plan that I wasn’t using. I spent $1,300 on optional company benefits (legal advice, accidental death insurance…etc) that I didn’t need or wasn’t using.

I know it was a ridiculous purchase, but come on. It was pretty.

2019 Total Spending – $87,377

In 2019 I made changes to not pay for some services that I wasn’t using and knocked down shopping by $1,000. I did however spend $17,000 buying a used car to replace my primary car – a 15 year old SUV that was up for major repairs. We took the vacation of a lifetime to South America for $15,000 that we had saved for and paid in full. Believe it or not we did find some ways to save $3,000 on that trip but this was before I learned about travel rewards. I made a few positive changes, but they were minor.

2020 Total Spending-$66,537

In 2020, I found the FI movement and really started buying into it. I cancelled services I wasn’t using. I packed my lunch every day. I sold my Corvette. It was fun to drive and I had a couple of great years with it! However, it was also expensive, something to constantly worry about and was another thing to take care of. I sold $3,200 of stuff from around the house that we weren’t using on FB marketplace and Ebay. Obviously this little world event called a pandemic reduced some entertainment spending but that wasn’t the only driver.

Saying goodbye!

Housing: Yeah, housing! Yikes. A new roof moved the needle on that one.

Food: Food was a lot less eating out and a lot more groceries.

Vacation: We had a vacation planned for May and paid for some of it before COVID forced cancellations. We also took a trip to Maine in September that was much needed.

Transportation: No more car changes! Selling the corvette reduced insurance and maintenance costs. Gas was far reduced with much more work from home.

Shopping: This is mostly Amazon food and stuff. I need to separate this better for 2021 because it wasn’t as bad as it seems.

Pets: We have an aging pooch and he is starting to have some issues😢. He had a minor surgery, extra vet visits and a bunch of daycare costs.

Healthcare: I finally looked into options to fixing my mild sleep apnea and increasing sleep quality. I had a dental device made and wow, it has been life changing! So much more energy, I don’t snore and I sleep like a rock. Most of the cost for the year was that device and associated visits.

2021 Goal Spending < $55,000

Where do we go from here to reduce spending? Well, we dive into the 2020 spending and look for any areas to optimize in 2021. Then we take action on those areas. Start with the most expensive budget areas and then work down each one. I look for things to cut that don’t add value to our lives and wouldn’t reduce happiness. For example, entertainment such as going to concerts and events makes us happy so I will keep a larger entertainment budget. On the other hand, paying for life insurance only adds value if I have the right amount. I’m wasting money if I’m overinsured.

I make a budget based on the new target spending in MS Excel and then will track to it in 2021 using You Need A Budget (YNAB). I am brand new to YNAB but I’m impressed so far so more to come on that tool in the future.

Items highlighted in yellow are areas of planned reduction in 2021 and reflect the new target values to achieve our goal budget.

2021 areas of focus:

Housing – $26,783 -> $15,103

Okay, this one feel like cheating. A new roof was needed in 2020 so that’s a $10,850 expense that we better not need anytime soon. You hear me mother nature and vermin of the world!?! On the upside it looks pretty sexy if roofs are your thing. In the home repairs category I’ll look for repair vs. replace savings and more DIY opportunities. I didn’t pay for snow plow service this year so we’ll see if I regret that. One could certainly look into more aggressive ways to reduce spending here like rent out a room or sell the house. At the moment I’m not interested in those options.

Shopping – $4,166 -> $1,500

Damn you Amazon prime and your ultimate convenience! This actually isn’t as bad as it seems as there’s a LOT of food related spending included. Protein shake ingredients, running fuel and vitamins make up a lot of it. I will categorize things better this year. That said, I still get the urge to buy something new sometimes. I’ll give the 72 hour rule from the Frugalwoods a shot – wait for 72 hours to think about it before buying non-essential items – and see how that works.

Insurance – $2,167 -> $1,500?

A bit of a downer topic, but important to talk about. How much life and disability insurance does one need? How much when you’re approaching your FI number? I’ll be explore this topic in its own post and look at whether I can eliminate or reduce this expense substantially in 2021. I have a fancy disability insurance policy costing me $1,200/yr and term life insurance for WAY more coverage than I need for $650/yr.

halloween headstones on grassy ground
Photo by Juan Vargas on Pexels.com

Food – $9,710 -> $10,400

Umm, have you lost it sir? This is supposed to be a post about reducing spending, not increasing it. Yeah yeah, I know. This one looks bad on the surface but I’m actually reducing food spending overall to hit this number. In 2020 I bought a lot of food items on Amazon but called them shopping. It’s a little bit of a shell game but I’m actually challenging myself to reduce overall food spending. Eating out was down with the pandemic but we do enjoy that occasionally so that will go back up. Usually it’s pretty affordable like this deconstructed sushi bowl, a.k.a. sushi trasher.

But, but…food!

Actionable ways to reduce spending:

  1. Track your spending! Use a spreadsheet, Mint, YNAB or something else but you MUST understand where the money is going.
  2. Lump spending into categories that work for your lifestyle.
  3. Sort by largest category to smallest by dollar amount. Start digging into each one and look into options for ways to cut down on spending where it isn’t improving your life.
  4. Keep the goal of the spending in mind when looking to optimize. If your travel costs are high and you want to visit a city for a week, the goal is to experience the city. Where you stay when there is highly variable cost with many options like hotel, AirBnB, hostel, stay with friends and house sit. Thinking about the goal keeps the solution space open to more creative ways to solve the problem.

How did you do in 2020? How are you planning to optimize or reduce spending in 2021?

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