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Investing

Mega Backdoor Roth : My Step by Step How-To Guide

BLUF: A mega backdoor Roth rollover is a powerful way to get a boatload of money into a Roth account for those that have a 401k/403b/457 plan that allows it. You can go well beyond the $6k limit in 2021 up to as much as $38.5k extra a year.

Why I Wrote this Article

The Mega Backdoor Roth, or MBR for short since we’ll use that phrase a lot, is not a new invention. I can’t find an exact “discovery” date but people in the personal finance and FI communities have been talking about it at least since 2014. However, like many people, I didn’t know what I didn’t know until I read an article telling me about the MBR and I realized the power of it.

What I didn’t find, though, was a detailed article showing me step by step how to figure out if it my 401k made the MBR possible, how to contribute to the after tax 401k and then how to execute the rollover. This article provides a detailed example of how with Fidelity and Vanguard I was able get $20k+ (a partial year) into my Roth and will continue to do so over the next few years. I’ll show how I researched that the MBR was possible with my company 401k plan, what accounts I needed to open and how I got the money into the right accounts.

What is a Roth IRA, Backdoor Roth and Mega Backdoor Roth?

Roth IRA

A Roth IRA is a fantastic option for many as a part of their retirement plan. It allows you to contribute after tax money into the account that then grows tax free until you’re ready to use it. The biggest downside for most is the low contribution limit of $6k in 2021 or $7k if you’re 50 and over. Not exactly enough to retire early on unless you’re a special private investing wizard like Peter Thiel who ended up with $5B in his.

Backdoor Roth IRA Contribution

A backdoor Roth is really a shortened name for a backdoor Roth IRA conversion. Contributing directly to a Roth IRA is the front door and this is a backdoor option to get around pesky income limitation of a Roth IRA. You see, the government doesn’t think you should be allowed to contribute to a Roth if you make too much money. In 2021 you can only contribute the full amount if a single filer has a modified AGI of less than $125k and a married filer is less than $198k1. Above those income levels the amount you can contribute reduces until it phases out complete.

A backdoor Roth conversion is a way for people with incomes above the previously mentioned limits to still get money into a Roth. They can contribute directly to a traditional IRA with the same contribution limits as a Roth IRA, convert those funds into a Roth IRA and pay the taxes owed. Aren’t loopholes fun?

Mega Backdoor Roth (MBR)

If a backdoor Roth is a cool loophole to contribute to a Roth when you otherwise couldn’t then a MBR contribution must be downright badass, right? Only if you think being able to put $38,500 a year into your Roth is badass. The MBR is essentially the company sponsored version of the backdoor Roth contribution as it only applies to people that have 401k or 403b plans through their employer.

How is that possible? Well there are multiple annual contribution limits on a 401k. The employee contribution is capped at $19,500 for 2021. However, there’s also a much higher annual limit of $58,000 on total contributions between you, any employer matching and after tax contributions. Similar to retirement account contributions there’s a higher total limit of $64,500 if you’re 50 and older. In the future you can find the current limits with the IRS here.

Any space left between the total limit of $58k, what you contribute to the plan and what your employer contributes is an opportunity to use the MBR. In that extra space you can contribute after tax funds into a separate part of your 401k/403b. That money will eventually be rolled out of your 401k/403b and into a Roth IRA.

In the images below you can see a couple of examples of this. On the left, if you max out your 401k and don’t get an employer match then you have the red area of $38.5k available to contribute to after tax. On the right, the same scenario except with a $10k employer matching contribution. That eats into the $58k limit and you have $28.5k left to contribute after tax.

How Does a Mega Backdoor Roth Work?

Let’s get into the details of whole this MBR process works. However, before we get to deep let’s see what is required to do it.

Is the Mega Backdoor Roth Possible for You?

Before you get too excited at the prospect of this mind blowing option, time for some real talk. Unfortunately there are some requirements to be able to take advantage of the MBR and not everyone can take advantage of this.

  1. You must have a 401k or 403b account.
  2. After tax contributions must be allowed by the plan administrators of that account – This doesn’t mean a Roth 401k, this is a special separate bucket that gets contributed to post-tax. It’s really no different then getting your paycheck and depositing it into a brokerage account only that it happens automatically from your paycheck.
  3. In-service withdrawals must be allowed by the plan administrators of that account – This means that your plan must let you get the money out of the 401k while you’re still working (in service). You technically could do the MBR without this but as you’ll see in a bit a little bit of the value goes away.

More details below on how you figure out if your plan allows it when we get into the step by step portion.

How does the Mega Backdoor Roth Work?

So what is the process for executing a MBR? At a high level:

  1. Turn on after-tax contributions for your 401k/403b. You usually choose a percentage of your gross paycheck that you’d like to contribute.
  2. Money is then taken out of your paycheck and invested in funds of your choosing but in a special after tax bucket that is separate from your tax advantaged money. You should have the same investment options to invest the money in as you would in your pre-tax 401k account.
  3. After some amount time you do an in-service withdrawal rollover the after tax funds from your 401k to separate Roth and traditional (tIRA) accounts. Your after-tax contributions roll directly to the Roth. Any growth of your after-tax investments (gains) have to be rolled into a tIRA.
Mega Backdoor Roth Process

Step three is where the magic happens. You’ve taken this huge chunk of money ($38.5k in the above example) and rolled it into a Roth IRA. That $38.5k is on top of the normal $6k that you’re allowed to contribute.

Technically you could contribute zero or very little to the pre-tax 401k and use up all of that $58k space for a MBR but I can’t think of many instances when you’d want to do that. Perhaps someone approaching early retirement that has all their money tied up pre-tax and needs to pump up their Roth fast.

Notice that the growth needs to go to a separate tIRA account. This is a little odd since technically you took money that was already taxed, it grew, and now it’s going into a tIRA where it is treated as pre-tax. Meaning that it will be taxed as ordinary income when withdrawn in the future. Double taxation? No thank you.

It’s for that reason that it’s advantageous to get the after tax money out of your 401k as fast as possible before it can grow if you’re doing a MBR. Unfortunately your ability to do this is very plan specific. In my 401k plan if I do an in-service withdrawal then I’m locked out from contributing OR making another withdrawal for 3 months. As such, I’m going it once a year. Some people have the ability to do in-service withdrawals with every paycheck. You need to read your plan documentation to how it works for you.

Executing a Mega Backdoor Roth – My Step By Step

brown wooden opened door shed
Photo by Harrison Haines on Pexels.com

Time to walk through each step of what is required to figure out what you can do with your plan and execute a MBR rollover.

Step 1: Do you have a 401k or 403b plan?

Hopefully you’ve figured out by this point that this strategy only applies to 401k and 403b accounts. Sorry, but you’re out of luck on this loophole if you don’t have one of those accounts.

Step 2: Download your plan documentation

Yes, it’s dry, boring and is written like a legal document but your plan document is the final word on what you can and cannot do with your 401k.

Have insomnia? Read your plan document and you’ll be snoring in no time. No counting sheep required.

Zzzzzzz

Step 3: Does your plan allow after tax contributions?

It was pretty explicit in my document that after tax contributions are allowed as it shows up clearly in its own section.

Step 4: Does your plan allow in-service distributions?

This is key to know including any details about how often you can make a distribution or withdrawal. I found a nice table in other plan documentation that laid out the details. In my case, yes they are permitted but only once every 3 months.

However, when you look into the fine print in the plan document you find out that there are a couple of caveats:

  1. If you withdraw after tax money then you need to take it all out. No big deal for me and I can’t think of when this could cause an issue.
  2. You are locked out of after tax contributions for 3 months after the withdrawal.

#1 is no big deal. #2 does impact me. With a 3 month lockout period I can’t do a withdrawal too often so I chose to do it yearly. It also means that I need to contribute all my after tax funds for the year into a 9 month window since I’ll be locked out of contributing for the other 3 months.

Step 5: Setting up after tax contributions

Fidelity makes the contribution selection very straightforward and breaks it out into pre-tax and after-tax buckets. The percentage selected for the after-tax contributions is still based on my gross income. For example, if you make $100k a year gross then if you select a 15% after tax contribution then you’ll have $15k / year taken out.

Figuring out how much to take out per paycheck was a little trickier in my case because my plan locks out contributions for 3 months after an in-service withdrawal. Because of that, I needed to fit all contributions into a 9 month window, not a 12 month window.

To contribute $20k from a $100k salary over a 9 months window you need to contribute ($20k/$100k)*(12mo/9mo) = 26.67% of your gross salary.

Step 6: Making sure the destination accounts are created

In my case at Vanguard I already had a Roth IRA so I opened up a separate tIRA.

Step 6: Making the in-service withdrawal

This had to be done by phone since my 401k is with Fidelity and the rollover was going to accounts with another company. I found out that if my Roth IRA and tIRA had also been with Fidelity that this rollover could have been done electronically although over the phone was very easy. The agents know what this MBR is (although it’s not called it) so it was easy to do. Fidelity charges $20 for each withdrawal.

Since the money is going to two different accounts they physically send two different checks. When you call to do the in-service withdrawal it’s important to label the checks with whatever information the receiving institution (Vanguard in my case) wants. On their website they mention what they’d like the Vanguard account number on the check but Fidelity refused to do that for security reasons.

Not having the account number didn’t cause any issues and I was able to use mobile check depositing with the Vanguard app to deposit both checks fine.

Below you can see the details of what was distributed to me by Fidelity. In my case my after tax contributions, check #1 for $20,441.91, went to the Vanguard Roth IRA. Check #2 for $770.21, the after tax gains, went to the Vanguard IRA account as pre-tax income. No taxes are required to be paid until the future when I withdraw the money from the tIRA.

After my In-service Withdrawal

One thing to be aware of was that in my plan, after I did my in-service distribution two things happened:

  1. My after tax contributions stopped for 3 months per plan rules.
  2. I couldn’t change my contribution amounts for 3 months. The message below is misleading because my pre-tax contributions kept going. Only my after tax contributions were stopped.

Your mileage may vary based on your plan rules.

IRS Notice 2014-54 and the Pro Rata Rule

IRS Notice 2014-54 is a clarification that formally OK’d that plan administrators could do what’s described here and cut separate checks for pre / after tax amounts and let you roll them over into the desired accounts.

That notice, though, doesn’t provide any clear exceptions to the pro rata rule to let you distribute only the after tax money as is the case with the MBR. This IRS website actually addresses this question directly.

On the surface, it seems like the MBR shouldn’t work unless you roll over your entire account which isn’t possible while still in service. However, a well respected financial expert, Michael Kitces, has weighed in on this exact topic in this article.

Now, one partial exception to this rule is that if the plan separately accounts for the after-tax contributions and associated growth, it is possible to distribute and roll over just the after-tax and its associated growth but not the rest of the plan. In this case, the pro-rata rule would only apply to the separate accounting share.

Michael Kitces, Ongoing Roth Conversions Of In-Service Distributions From A 401(k) Plan To A Roth IRA

He’s stating that if your plan keeps that after tax money separate then the pro rata rule is still being applied, but only to the after tax portion of the account. That’s exactly what the MBR is doing when it splits off the after tax contributions to a Roth and the after tax growth to an IRA. You’re applying the pro rata rule to the after tax part of the account.

I can’t find any official IRS documentation that backs up what Michael is saying but our tax code is very complicated and I could have missed it. Anecdotally, many people have used the MBR and have not been hit with surprise tax bills courtesy of the pro rata rule.

Other things to note:

Some Plans have Better MBR Options

Some readers have also reminded me that they some plans have even better options for the MBR. For example, some plans will let you take your after tax contributions after every paycheck and automatically roll them into a Roth. Wow, that’s a sweet deal. In that situation you never have gains to worry about and you can avoid the two check approach outlined in this article.

MBR Rollover Money is Accessible Right Away

This MBR rollover is not a conversion like the Roth conversion ladder where there is a 5 year waiting period before the money can be touched. It’s a rollover of contributions so the money can be withdrawn tax free at any time.

Action Steps:

  1. Review your 401k / 403b /457 plan documentation and see if the MBR applies to you.
  2. If so, consider doing it! While a brokerage account is also very flexible and tax free at low income levels the Roth has tax free growth at any income level.

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Sources
  1. https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/amount-of-roth-ira-contributions-that-you-can-make-for-2021
Categories
General FI

Net Worth vs. FI Number: Two Important but Different Measures

BLUF: Net Worth and your “FI number” are two very important but unique financial measures to track. Net worth is a single number to track wealth building. Your FI number defines a finish line for wealth building to know when you have enough.

If you hang around FI groups long enough there are likely three very important metrics that you’ll hear discussed: annual expenses, net worth and your financial independence (FI) number. The three all are related and contribute to answering the main question we care about: how much do I need to retire? Back in January, I discussed how I was tracking my expenses to understand my annual expenses and cut areas of waste. I’ll deep dive into tracking expenses soon since that is a key to understanding your annual spending.

Net worth and your FI number are wealth related metrics but they aren’t the same thing. This article will dig into what they are and how to measure each one.

What is net worth?

pexels-photo-164527.jpeg
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Net worth is quite simply a measure of the wealth of an individual or company. The math isn’t complicated with the formula being: Net Worth = Total Assets – Total Liabilities.

Unlike your FI number, net worth and how you calculate it is a standard thanks to the accounting profession. There isn’t a debate about how you calculate it and what is an asset and a liability is standardized by the accounting profession. I’m sure there’s lots of nuance when calculating net worth for large, complicated businesses but it’s straightforward for most people.

What is an asset?

“An asset is anything of value or a resource of value that can be converted into cash.”1 It’s all your accounts that already are in cash like bank accounts and investment accounts. It’s also anything tangible that you own that could be sold and turned into cash. Your car, your house, a business, land and fine art just to name a few examples. A few more examples below:

  • All bank account balances
  • All retirement account balances (401k, 403b, 457, Roth, traditional IRA etc)
  • Property value
  • Car value
  • Business value
  • Leisure vehicle value (boat, RV, motorcycle…etc)
  • Antiques / collectibles / fine art
  • Anything that you could sell for cash

What is a liability?

liability is something a person or company owes, usually a sum of money.2 All those places where you owe money and make payments? Yup, those are liabilities. Some of the most common liabilities are listed below:

  • Mortgage
  • Car Loan
  • Student Loan
  • Personal Loan
  • Business loan
  • Credit card debt
  • HELOC balance
  • Family member loan

Net worth calculation examples:

Your net worth is how much money would you have if you sold everything you owned, turned it to cash and then paid off all the debt that you could with that cash. Lets take simple example from a teenager that has a cheap car worth $2,000, they have $1,000 in the bank and they owe their parents $2,000 for loaning them the money for the car.

Assets = $1,000 cash + $2,000 car = $3,000
Liabilities = $2,000 car loan to parents
Net Worth = $3,000 in assets – $2,000 in liabilities
Net Worth = $1,000

How to track your net worth

There are many options to track your net worth. Since the calculation is simple you can use a piece of paper, a spreadsheet or a variety of programs out there. The thing about net worth is that the number is very dynamic. The more assets and liabilities you have, the more you have to update to get your current net worth. That’s why I prefer using a program that can pull in account information automatically.

Net Worth Tracking Using Personal Capital

I, like many other people, use personal capital (PC) because it’s free and it allows you to easily add all your accounts so that your net worth can be updated automatically. Mrs. MFI and I have 8 different investment accounts, 7 bank accounts, 12 credit cards and our mortgage. That would be a pain to try and grab the latest numbers from each even on a monthly basis.

This is a good time to point out why PC is a nice free service. Well, it’s free because the free net worth tracking that they offer gives them an easy way to find potential clients for their money management services. They can “see” how much money you have an when your investible assets exceeds $100k you get a phone call from them for a free consultation. That $100k number will likely change over time but they have given me a call periodically as my net worth continues to grow. I just ignore the voicemails and they don’t call me back for months.

Here’s the summary sheet showing net worth, total assets, total liabilities and totals for sub groups like cash and investments.

Aside from seeing the numbers real time you can see a graph of total net worth, any sub-group or any individual account over time. That’s a nice way to see the progress that you’re making over time to keep you motivated whether you’re paying down a debt or building an investment account.

Manually Tracking Net Worth with Personal Capital

There are many people out there that do not feel comfortable about storing their account login information in services like PC. You may want to read this article to understand everything that is done to protect your data. Since this free service is their funnel for feeding their money maker, the money management business, they have a vested interest in keeping your credentials safe. That said, you can still use the program to do the math for you and give you pretty graphs while manually inputting the data.

Net Worth Tracking Using A Spreadsheet

The same calculation that personal capital is doing automatically you can do using a spreadsheet. An example of what that might look like is shown below. The downside is that it takes more work. Where I can open up personal capital and let it update net worth automatically, you need to pull up every account balance and manually input it into a spreadsheet. All of these numbers are dynamic so they’ll change monthly at a minimum.

Add up all your assets, Add up all your liabilities. Subtract liabilities from your assets and net worth is what’s left.

What is Financial Independence?

Before we dive into a discussion about what an FI number is, let’s recalibrate on what it means to be financially independent. It’s about cash flow ultimately. To be financially independent means that you have some combination of assets that throw off enough cash to pay all of your monthly living expenses month after month for the rest of your life. That’s what it means to be financially independent. That could be passive business income, rental real estate income or a stock/bond portfolio.

Since business and real estate income are straightforward in figuring out FI (does the income that it generates exceed your expenses) I won’t discuss those areas in depth.

What is your FI number?

unrecognizable woman sitting in hammock above mountains
Photo by Dziana Hasanbekava on Pexels.com

Hang around any FI or FIRE communities and you’ll hear people talking about their FI number. Since many people use stock and bond investing through retirement accounts and brokerage accounts as their way to reach FI, they’re looking for a dollar amount that they need in those accounts to be FI. That total dollar amount in all cash and investment accounts that is able to sustain them until they die is their FI number. This is important because it defines the finish line for us. The point at which we have “enough” and no long need to worry about earning more money. Cue the picture of someone hanging out in the hammock usually on a beach.

Exactly how much you need for that FI number is an interesting topic. People want certainty in life, especially with their money, because it’s a terrifying though to run out of money when you’re old. Unfortunately, the future is uncertain and so we can only talk about the future in terms of probabilities and what is likely to happen.

How to Calculate your FI Number – Rough Target

If you read my article on the 4% rule then you could probably have guessed that it would be the basis for the rough target FI number. A study of past market data highlighted that if you invest in somewhere between a 50-75% stock and 50-25% bond allocation then history has shown that your money has a very low probability of running out in 30 years if you withdraw 4% a year. Withdrawing 4% per year to cover your living expenses means that you need to save 25x your annual living expenses.

For example, if your annual living expenses are $50,000 then your rough FI number would be $50,000 * 25 = $1,250,000.

It’s important to start here because it’s an easy number to figure out once you know your annual expenses. It then gives you a north star to work towards. Because your FI number is a multiplier of your expenses, I hope that you immediately see the power in reducing your annual expenses. Not only does it allow you save more, but every $1,000 less in annual spending is $25,000 less that you need to reach FI. Whoa.

Your FI Number – Advanced Considerations

It would be great if the rough number was sufficient to figuring how much you needed. It would also be great if that number wasn’t dynamic. Unfortunately, neither of these things are true! Time to go into the more advanced considerations when figuring out your FI number. The good news is that you can start thinking about these over time and only start to factor them as you get closer to making a substantial life change like leaving your job.

Your Retirement Expenses vs. Your Now Expenses

green coconut palm trees
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You know what your current annual expenses are, but those are irrelevant unless you’re going to live exactly the same in retirement than you are living now. If you’re retiring early the one item that’s almost certain to go up if you live in the US is your health insurance cost. Many people with W2 jobs have some of those costs subsidized by their employer.

Are you planning a radical life change after you hit FI? Selling everything and hitting the road to be a nomad? Buying an RV and traveling around the country? Buying a vacation house to spend more time near the ocean? You’ll need to project the expenses for the live you WANT to live and make sure your FI number is based off of those expenses. If your future expenses are lower than today then it’s important to know this or you’ll end up working longer than you have to. If future expenses are higher than today then that’s even more important to plan into your FI number.

25x Might Not Be Enough for Early Retirement

The 4% rule is based off of a 30 year time horizon. Data shows that men in the US who make it to age 65 will live on average until age 833. Women who make it to age 65 will live to close to 86 years old on average4. If you’re retiring anywhere in the standard 62 to 65 year old range then the 4% rule is likely far too conservative for you unless you have a history of very long life in your family.

However, if you’re reading this blog you probably are on a path to stop work earlier much sooner. Unfortunately, the probability of your money lasting until you die decreases if your retirement length increases. Early Retirement Now re-did the trinity study but increased the data set (1871 to 2016) and also showed 40, 50 and 60 year time horizons. The 4% withdrawal rate doesn’t look so safe if you expect to spend 40, 50 or 60 years in retirement. 3.5%, however, had a 99% probability of success at 50 years for a 75% stock allocation.

Mrs. MFI is pretty risk averse and so even though our retirement period is likely to be in the 40 year range, I expect her to want to be around the 3.5% withdrawal rate. 29x expenses is a 3.45% withdrawal rate so that’s our target.

Taxes, sigh

Since we all hate taxes this is one that’s a little too easy to bury your head in the sand and ignore. However, it needs to be factored into your FI number unless you have a strategy to legally avoid taxation. All of your tax deferred retirement accounts like a 401k, 403b, tIRA will be subject to taxation as ordinary income when you withdraw the money. Yes, if you’re savvy and very tactical in your retirement plans you can dodge some of those taxes through Roth IRA conversions. However, since life is dynamic I think it’s prudent to plan on having to pay those taxes as normal when figuring our your FI number.

How do you do this? Reduce your current investment balance by the rate of taxation expected. For example, for a married couple that withdraws $60k from their 401k in 2020 the effective tax rate is roughly 10%. If that’s where you expect your annual expenses to be then take 10% off the number in all tax deferred accounts.

For example, if you need $60k annually to live post tax and all your wealth will be in 401k accounts then you need more than $60k * 25x = $1,500,000. $1.5M is what you’ll have pre-tax but after being taxed 10% you’ll be left with $1.35M. You’ll actually need $1.5M / 0.9 (10% tax) = $1.67M in those 401k accounts to net the $1.5M post tax amount that you need.

If you live in state with state income tax you’ll need to factor that taxation in as well. Yeah, taxes suck.

Action Steps:

  • Figure out your net worth using either Personal Capital, spreadsheet or another means. I think this is the most important metric as it tells you if you’re building wealth over time.
  • Calculate your rough FI number. If you are working on lowering your expenses, see how lowering them impacts that rough FI number.
  • Start thinking about the future and how your life in FI might change your expenses. Have a discussion with our spouse if you have one about what you want that life to be life.
  • If you haven’t thought about tax considerations for tax deferred retirement accounts it’s time to start figuring that into the equation.

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Sources

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