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How Risky Are Stablecoins? 5 Risks To Consider

BLUF: Stablecoins are attractive for their high interest rates and greater price stability but they aren’t risk free. It’s important to understand the risks before you decide how much to invest.

I actually started writing this article 3 months ago in mid-February. I had personally been on a journey of exploring the crypto space which including building up 1% of our portfolio across Bitcoin, Ethereum and the GUSD stablecoin.

At the end of 2021 I did a classic rookie mistake of letting FOMO (fear of missing out) drive me faster into an investment that I didn’t fully understand. Buying Bitcoin and Ethereum with new investment money was an okay decision. However, at the time I also moved our entire travel fund and part of our emergency fund into GUSD – the Gemini stablecoin.

This article is going to go into the details of stablecoins, yes. But the discussion about understanding and assessing the risks is more broadly applicable to more than just stablecoins. Assessing risks and then making decisions is a lifelong practice that can have large impacts on our lives.

I’m not here trying to scare you, but rather educate you. Investing is about taking on the right amount of risk based on your goals, plan and personality. Lets get into what stablecoins are and what risks exist when investing in them.

What is a stablecoin?

They’re a cryptocurrency that’s pegged 1:1 against another asset. Most commonly this is pegged against a FIAT currency like the USD.

An example of Gemini’s Dollar (GUSD), the stablecoin that I hold, in relation to the US dollar. Because the scale is so tight it seems volatile but the price most of the time is 1.00 +/- 1 cent.

Three Main Types Of Stablecoins

There are three main types of stable coins listed in order of most to least stable.

  • Fiat-backed – stablecoins that hold reserves of the currency that it’s pegged to in order to back it.
  • Crypto-backed – stablecoins that is backed (also called collateralized) by cryptocurrencies that are held in reserved.
  • Algorithmic – These use algorithms the regulate supply and demand in order to maintain the peg. They’re usually two or more token systems where one taken is a stablecoin and the second tokens price can freely fluctuate in the market.

Here’s a list of some popular stablecoins.

Stablecoin (Symbol) – Type

  • Tether (USDT) – Fiat-backed
  • Gemini USD (GUSD) – Fiat-backed
  • Circle US Coin (USDC) – Fiat-backed
  • Dai (DAI) – Crypto-backed
  • Terra USD (UST) – Algorithmic

How Does A Stablecoin Maintain Its Peg?

In a word – trust. All the biggest stablecoins are collateralized which means that they’re back by assets. Investors buy stablecoins with the understanding that their money will be used to purchase other reliable assets like US treasuries, money market funds or short term bonds. That gives them confidence that when they want to exchange those stablecoins back to FIAT currency, they’ll be able to do it.

The algorithmic stablecoins are either partially collateralized with another crypto token or non-collateralized. In theory these work by the algorithm acting like a central bank. It holds the peg by minting more coins when there’s high buying pressure to keep the price from rising. Burns coins when there’s a lot of selling pressure to keep the price from falling.

These are quite complicated and so far have not proven to hold up during volatile situations. The most recent implosion was the token Luna which worked in conjunction with Terra UST to maintain that stablecoin. UST couldn’t maintain its peg and Luna went into a death spiral in May 2022 trying to keep the peg. It never recovered.

Terra LUNA – The token associated with UST. From $80/coin to $.00025 in less than a week. Ouch

What Is The Utility Of Stablecoin?

Being stable!

In the cryto space, price volatility is the norm. Here’s an example of price volatility for Bitcoin, the largest coin in the world. This is over a WEEK. 5-10% changes in price over a day are not unusual.

Price volatility is okay for an investment that you plan to hold, but not money where price stability is desired. Here are a few situations where stablecoins prove to be a useful tool

A Tool To Combat Unstable FIAT Currencies

In the US we take for granted that the US dollar is so stable in value. A dollar in your Friday paycheck isn’t going to change in value by the time you go to the grocery store on Sunday. This isn’t the case in other countries. Venezuela’s hyperinflation was so bad that some stores removed price labels since the price was changing daily from the currency being devalued.

https://worldpopulationreview.com/country-rankings/inflation-rate-by-country

In countries with unstable currencies, stablecoins are one way for people to move their unstable FIAT currency into something that isn’t impacted by inflation like their native currency. It’s also a way to cheaply send money to relatives in other countries.

Providing Liquidity In Crypto Markets

Provides liquidity to crypto markets. If you look at the 24 hour trading volume, stablecoins dominate the market with Tether easily number #1. That should not be surprising since it also dominates in the circulating supply with $78B Tether coins out there.

If you look at the most popular coin in marketcap and volume, Bitcoin, you can see the most popular trading pairs and their volume. Stablecoins, and more specifically Tether, are the highest volume trading pairs with Bitcoin.

The Rewards

Before getting into risks, lets acknowledge why stablecoins are getting so much attention. High interest rates! And when I say high, I mean astronomical compared to anything resembling a bank account. Here’s an example of some of the highest rates being touted.

Greed drives a lot of human behavior and it’s hard to ignore something offering such high returns compared with the < 1% that most HYSA and CD’s are offering in May of 2022. We may not know much about how they can offer such good returns but our minds can justify a lot when there’s money to be made.

And this is the allure of stablecoins. You’ve found the nirvana of investing: high returns with low risk. Or have you?

The Difficulty In Assessing Risk

I’m sorry to burst your bubble, but like most things in investing and life, there is no free lunch. There’s no such thing high returns with low risk. You see, if there was, everyone would do it and the returns would drop. What I see is the “stable” term being misinterpreted.

Stablecoins are only price stable. Price stability is being mistaken by many to mean “safe” and “low risk.”

In my world of project management, there are two components to assessing a risk: the probability of the risk occurring and the magnitude of the impact if the risk occurs. We want to avoid or mitigate risks that are both high probability and high impact.

For example, building a house in a common flood zone. There’s a high probability of the flooding happening because there’s an established history of it based on the land. If the flooding does happen there’s a high impact in that the financial cost to repair or replace the house is great. That’s why flood insurance can be very expensive if you live in a flood zone.

That’s great to understand about risk, but that only helps if you can accurately assess the probability AND impact of a risk. With a company that often comes down to the reputation of the people running it, what they tell us and the information that they publish.

Bernie Madoff was a legitimate, trusted wall street businessman for years before he started his ponzi scheme that tricked so many. Many professional investors were invested in Madoff for years without realizing it was a fraud.

Enron was formed from two legitimate energy companies that existed for decades. Then internally some bad actors started committing accounting fraud over many years imploding the company surprising many. That fraud also flew under the radar for many years despite being a public company with required quarterly accounting reports.

I’m not trying to say that stablecoins are fraudulent. I’m trying to say that it can be very hard to assess the risk of things that look like they’re working well on the outside. Some investments can very abruptly flip from the “all is well” state to losing a lot of money.

5 Risks Of Investing In Stablecoins

Given that backdrop of information on stablecoins and risk, lets talk about 5 risks that exist in the use of stablecoins.

Stablecoins Losing Their Peg

One incorrect risk assessment is perceiving a stablecoin held on a crypto exchange with a similar level of stability, safety and trust as a savings account held at a bank. After all, its stable!

However, stability is the goal, not the guarantee. We certainly saw that with the stablecoin UST (now called USTC) losing it’s $1.00 peg. It now trades for $0.02 on the dollar so you’ve lost 98% of your stablecoin investment.

As much as our brains want to think of stablecoins as cash with a set value, they’re investments. There are risks being taken behind the scenes with the money that you use to buy stablecoins in order to provide the high published interest rates.

The systems that are in place to maintain that peg are not perfect and many have never been stressed to see how hey will hold up. Algorithmic stablecoins like UST so far have proved to be the highest risk to failing. And when it happens, it’s ugly.

No Insurance Against Loss (FDIC / SIPC)

Cash held in a regulated bank gets FDIC insurance to protect a depositor for up to $250,000 in the event that the bank goes out of business. The federal government provides that backstop to avoid bank runs that happen when people lose faith in a bank and fear that they won’t be able to get their money back.

Investments held in a financial institution that is an SIPC member company are protected in the event that the company declares bankruptcy. It protects up to $500,000 in investments including up to $250,000 in cash.

Two more recent examples of this was the Lehman Brother bankruptcy in 2008 and the Madoff Ponzi scheme. Because both of these were SIPC member institutions the SIPC stepped in and was able to help protect investor accounts and try to make them whole.

Source: SIPC History
Source: SIPC History

It’s important to recognize that SIPC does NOT insure you against the loss of capital because your investments decrease in value. It’s only against bankruptcy of the member company.

At the time of writing there aren’t any crypto only exchanges that are SIPC insured. Gemini, for example, has FDIC insurance on cash it holds but no SIPC insurance. And they are one of the standout companies in the space in my opinion when it comes to being reputable and lower risk.

Counterparty Risk – The Stablecoin Company

It’s important to recognize that all these stablecoins are issued by private companies. The companies created this “currency” and for that currency to have value and exist, the company that created the stablecoin needs to be able to take those stablecoins back at any time and give you back FIAT currency in exchange.

Counterparty risk is the risk that the other party in a transaction or investment isn’t able to hold up their end of the deal. In the case of the stablecoin this could mean maintain the peg as previously discussed. It could mean that they can’t hand you back a dollar in exchange for each stablecoin that you have.

It’s easy to think of a stablecoin like any other currency. However, there’s a big difference between having the full economy of the US government standing behind the US dollar versus the having Tether Ltd. standing behind their Tether stablecoin USDT.

Tether Ltd. is a private company that has issued $72.5B (billion!) in stablecoins. That’s a lot of money and responsibility. Being an asset backed stablecoin they need to responsibly manage that money to ensure that it’s available for redemption when people want it.

Per their website this is how those reserves are held. Looks like a vast majority of it is held in very safe, secure investments like cash and US treasury bills

Commercial paper makes up a healthy percentage as well. Commercial paper is unsecured, short term debt that typically earns very little interest. 0.36% is the February 2022 interest rate for 3 month, AA rated commercial paper. If you buy up commercial paper from higher risk (lower rated) companies you’ll make a higher return but have a higher risk of default.

https://ycharts.com/indicators/3_month_aa_financial_commercial_paper_rate

However, it is important to recognize that this is all “self reported” information. There have been attestations done but no true audits. Or, as they call them “assurance opinions”. In other words, nobody has gone through and looked at all the accounts where Tether says that these reserves are held in to verify that everything is as they say it is.

I’m not saying that there’s a problem here, but the fact that they’ve never been audited and refuse to be properly audited is a red flag to me. Being that they are the #3 most valuable crypto asset in the world I sure hope that they are properly managing this reserve money.

That’s the counterparty risk that you accept with Tether. If any kind of fraud or mismanagement did occur and they couldn’t redeem your USDT for FIAT currency then the stablecoin would plummet in value.

Regulatory risk

The cryptocurrency industry is very much in it’s infancy. It has gotten so big, so quickly that it’s just starting to get more attention from governments. With so much economic money becoming intertwined with crypto, the risk goes up of a crypto collapse impacting businesses and countries goes up. Nobody wants a financial crisis like 2008 again.

In response, some governments like China have banned cryptocurrency. In the US, the SEC is looking at crypto companies much more closely and handing out fines if they aren’t complying with the rules. The SEC fined BlockFI $100M because of violations.

The point is that regulation is coming and that’s a good thing. It will help to keep peoples money safe by increasing company transparency and holding them to risk management standards. However, regulation could force some companies out of business due to fines or being unable to comply.

By chance I end up with Gemini because New York has very tough compliance rules and Coinbase was the only other option. However, in hindsight, I’m happy about that because I think the probability is lower that Gemini could do something shady and get away with it.

Hacking Risk

Police: Why do you rob banks?

Willie: Because that’s where the money is.

Willie Sutton, bank robber

One downside with the crypto space is that its really a hackers dream. No more dealing with malware and trying to extort money from people to get their data back. With crypto, there are a hundred different “banks” full of crypto from which they can steal directly.

I had someone who was able to log into my Gemini account in the middle of the night and the only thing that saved me was the I had two factor authentication turned on. Fortunately they weren’t smart enough to get around that. However, people can even spoof phones now to bypass that.

There are so many startup crypto exchanges and projects that there is money floating everywhere in cyber space. These smaller companies don’t have the budgets to secure your account like more established companies. If you crypto is stolen you’re often out of luck.

If you counter this risk by holding your assets off the exchanges in a cold wallet then there’s the risk of a seed phrase being lost and the crypto not being recoverable. This article from last year estimated that 20% of all bitcoin seems to be lost or stuck in hardware wallets.

What Am I Doing?

In February 2022 I reversed course and pulled most of that emergency fund money and all of the travel fund back out and into our HYSA. I decided that I was most comfortable with treating stablecoins as an investment and only putting what I was willing to lose in them.

I do feel more confident with my money held in Gemini. However, it’s going to take more time and some more regulation in the industry for me to be comfortable putting money that I can’t lose into them.

I keep a modest crypto portfolio of 1% of my total portfolio. Of that, it’s roughly 55% bitcoin, 25% Ethereum, 20% GUSD stablecoins.

Are Stablecoins Worth The Risk?

Like all investment decisions, that’s really up to you to decide based on your situation, risk tolerance and what you can afford to use. I think they’re an interesting investment option and can be one of the less risky options in the crypto space.

However, personally, I wouldn’t park large sums of cash that you can’t afford to lose. My opinion could certainly change over time as the industry matures but it’s still the wild wild west out there in many areas.

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iBonds: Good Inflation Protection Or Overrated?

BLUF: iBonds do provide a safe bond that provides inflation protected income. However, with their buying limitations and short term illiquidity you do need to understand their limitations.

It’s always interesting to me when something in the world changes and all of sudden you start hearing about something “new” for the first time. In 2021 and 2022 that something in the world changing was the jump in US inflation rates for the first time in decades.

US Inflation rate by year
Source: https://tradingeconomics.com/united-states/inflation-cpi

The hot “new” investing option that emerged in the news in November of 2021 was this thing called an iBond. They’ve been around since 1998 but since inflation has been fairly low they weren’t all that attractive of an investment option. You can see this peaking of interest in the google search trends.

Google Trends for the term “iBonds”: Source: https://trends.google.com/trends/explore?date=today%205-y&geo=US&q=iBonds

Bonds decrease in value when interest rates go up and raising interest rates is a normal response to inflation. As such, people became worried about their bonds dropping in value with the threat of inflation.

What are these bonds that has everyone so interested? How do they work? When might iBonds make sense for you? I’m going to tackle all of these questions and more along the way.

What is an iBond?

This is a bond invented by Apple. Okay, not really. But if Apple did invent a bond it probably would have been called that.

This is a bond issued by the US government that not only pays a fixed rated of interest, but it also pays an inflation adjusted interest rate. There are many unique things about this bond though that make it quite different than individual bonds or bond funds that you might be used to buying.

We’ll dive into the details of each area of iBonds but here is the high level summary of them.

How Much In iBonds Can I Buy?

iBonds are unusual in that there’s a limit to how much of them you can buy. They’re sold as electronic bonds with a $10,000 per social security number (SSN), per year limit. That means that you’re fairly limited on buying them.

You can buy them on behalf of your spouse or children to increase the amount you can buy. For example, if you were married with 2 kids then you could buy $40,000 / year. An adult needs to open the kids account and then link the kids account to the adult.

Electronic iBonds are sold in any denomination down to the penny from $25 up to $10,000. You could be a $73.96 iBond if you really wanted to. Paper iBonds are only sold in denominations of $50, $100, $200, $500 and $1,000.

How Is iBond Interest Earned?

Things get a little tricky when it comes to calculating the actual interest that you earn on your iBonds. Lets step through the details slowly.

There are two interest rates that make up an iBond.

Fixed Rate: The fixed rate is an annualized rate of interest on your iBond. It’s set when the iBond is issued and never changes over the life of the bond (up to 30 years if you don’t sell it).

Inflation Rate: The inflation rate is the 6 month (semiannual) rate of interest earned on that bond. This is updated every 6 months and usually changes.

Your bond returns are a combination of the annual fixed rate + semiannual inflation rate.

All of these rates can be found here at the TreasuryDirect site.

That interest rate chart is a little confusing without some explanation. Refer to the picture below where I’ve marked up part of the TreasuryDirect interest rate chart to explain what’s going on.

Source: https://www.treasurydirect.gov/indiv/research/indepth/ibonds/IBondRateChart.pdf
  1. Issue Date: Your iBond will fall into one of these 6 month windows depending on the purchase date. These windows run November 1st to April 30th and May 1st to October 31st.
  2. Fixed Rate: The fixed rate is an annualized rate of interest on your iBond. This is set for the life of the iBond.
  3. Semiannual Inflation rate: The inflation rate is a 6 month (semiannual) rate of interest on your iBond. It is updated every May and November using the CPI-U (Consumer Price Index-Urban) metric.
  4. Nov-2020 Column: Annualized rate of return for an iBond based on that 6 month inflation period beginning November 1st, 2020. The inflation rate is the same for the period but then it’s combined with the fixed rate of each row to get the cell cotents.

For the blue box, the 2.18% is the annualized rate for an iBond issued between 5/2019 and 10/2020. Annualized inflation rate (0.84% * 2) + fixed rate (0.50%) = 2.18%.

This is confusing, though, because that inflation rate changes every 6 months. Lets show how this interest is calculated in a real world example.

iBond Interest Calculation Example

Say you bought a $10,000 iBond on March 1st, 2020 which has a fixed rate of 0.2% annualized. You can see the interest rates for that iBond row highlighted in red below.

Over the next 6 months you would get a combined 1.11% interest rate (0.1% fixed + 1.01% inflation). That would pay you $111 in interest which then gets added to the principle starting on 9/1/2020. That’s because the compounding period for an iBond is 6 months.

Inflation dropped to 0.53% for the 6 month block starting on 9/1/2020 so the interest rate for that 6 month block dropped to 0.63%. Using a new principle amount of $10,111, that provides $63.70 in interest over that 6 month block.

This continues on until the iBond matures at 30 years or you sell it. There are no tax consequences while you hold the bond as none of that interest is being distributed to you.

Negative Interest Rates

What happens if inflation goes negative (deflation)? The composite interest rate (fixed + inflation) can never below zero where you’d be giving back interest each month to the government.

However, it is possible the inflation rate to go negative and nullify interest from the iBond’s fixed rate. For example, say you bought an iBond in January of 2019 with a 0.50% fixed rate. If the inflation rate when negative in November of 2022 at a rate of -0.6% then the bond would pay 0% interest for that 6 month period.

This happened in May 2009 when semiannual inflation went to -2.78%. It wiped out the fixed rate returns for even iBonds with the highest fixed rates.

How are iBonds Taxed?

iBonds are subject to ordinary income taxes at the federal level but not to state or local taxes.

It’s important to note that no taxes are due until the iBond is sold or reaches maturity. There are no income taxes to report on an annual basis unless you sold the iBond that year.

How Do I Buy iBonds?

TreasuryDirect.gov login

You can only buy iBonds in two ways.

  • Electronic iBonds – TreasuryDirect.gov sells them online. You are limited to $10k / SSN as previously mentioned.
  • Paper iBonds – If you have a federal tax refund coming to you, you can file IRS form 8888 with your return and direct up to $5,000 in $50 increments to be bought in iBonds.

How Do I Sell iBonds?

Here’s another unique aspect of iBonds, their liquidity (or lack thereof). iBonds aren’t held in a brokerage or retirement account. There is no open market to buy or sell them with other market participants. It’s just you buying and selling them with the US Treasury department.

Just like buying the bonds, you do the selling of them through the treasury direct website.

Can’t Sell iBonds Within A Year

Unless you’re affected by a natural disaster you cannot sell your iBonds within the first year. Here is an iBond that I bought last month. See any sell button? Nope!

Interest Penalty If Sold Within 5 Years

If you sell an iBond within the first 5 years of holding it then you forfeit the previous 3 months worth of interest that you accrued.

How Useful Are These In Your Portfolio?

Time to get to the meat the of what you care about. Are these right for my portfolio?

As we’ve previously covered, iBonds aren’t bought or sold like your other investments. You can’t buy them with a 401k, IRA or brokerage account. You need to create a special account. You can’t buy as many of them as you want due to the $10k/SSN/year limitation. Honestly, they’re kind of a hassle.

If you have a $1M 80/20 portfolio and you wanted to move your bonds to iBonds because of inflation concerns you would need to move $200,000 to iBonds. If you were married it would take you 10 years to make that happen! Not very practical.

You could of course do it slowly over many years where you invest $10-$20k/yr layered in over many years. If we were to have a similar situation as we did in the 1970’s where inflation was up for a decade then this could work out in your favor. You can always liquidate the bonds at any time after that first year. You may have some increased taxes to pay on the gains but that’s a better problem to have than a loss of purchasing power.

Source: https://www.macrotrends.net/countries/USA/united-states/inflation-rate-cpi

Should iBonds Be In Your Emergency Fund?

ambulance architecture building business
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

What’s the purpose of your emergency fund? It’s to provide cash to save your butt in the event of an emergency. iBonds are illiquid for the first year so you better not buy them using any money that you need to access for with a year. Store that money in a high yield savings account or you could consider a combination of options.

Therefore they aren’t appropriate for most 3-6 month emergency funds. If you had a 2-3 year cash bucket in retirement it would be more reasonable to buy iBonds. But it’s only going to work for a small percentage of that cash bucket to start and could take many years to get the full amount invested.

You’d have to work through your plan and see you wanted to use a combination of HYSA and iBonds to balance returns with liquidity. Just remember though, the purpose of holding cash is usually liquidity, safety and optionality. Not returns.

Holding iBonds In Your “Cash” Retirement Bucket?

The most logical time to consider iBonds would be if you’re going to be holding a fair amount of cash but don’t need to deploy that cash quickly.

If you had a 2-3 year cash bucket in retirement it would be more reasonable to buy iBonds for a portion of that money. But it’s only going to work for a small percentage of that cash bucket to start and could take many years to buy those iBonds depending on that bucket size.

You’d have to work through your plan and see you wanted to use a combination of HYSA and iBonds to balance returns with liquidity. Just remember though, the purpose of holding cash is usually liquidity, safety and optionality. Not returns.

Are iBonds Good Inflation Protection?

iBonds are actually excellent inflation protection for the cash that you are able to invest in them due to their purchasing limits. Inflation rising can often mean the risk of interest rates increasing which hurts bond returns.

iBonds have the unique characteristic of being a stable US backed bond, yet they don’t go down in value if interest rates go up (interest rate risk). Their fixed interest rates are low so the bulk of the return component is that inflation adjusted rate. In a rising interest rate environment of current 2022 (to battle inflation) iBonds get a stronger return from that increasing inflation.

As inflation decreases so do your iBond returns. However, they can never go negative on their interest rate so there’s a backstop on the downside.

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How To Avoid Investing Mistakes When The Market Is Crazy

BLUF: When investors let emotions drive their decisions, they often lose money. Use these tips to help you stick to your plan and avoid making “in the moment” investing mistakes.

Market movement of all kinds can cause a wide range of emotions in us. Those emotions can very easily translate into investor behaviors that can cause long term damage to their portfolios. Selling investments to cash, borrowing to recoup losses and making huge changes to asset allocations are just a few examples of bad behaviors.

We’re going to explore how investing creates emotions and how that can influence bad decisions. We’ll discuss ways that you can minimize those emotions and prevent them from causing actual investing mistakes.

Investing Emotions

Investing is really hard. It would be much easier if we were unemotional robots that only used data and logic to make sound decisions. But being human and not robots, we’re complex, easily triggered balls of emotion that can go from zero to irrational very quickly at times.

With our hard earned money accumulated over many years or decades on the line, investing drives a lot of emotions. We often focus on the negative emotions that occur when markets are drop. However, there are emotions that can be triggered in a variety of market conditions that are both good, neutral or bad.

Investing Emotions

These emotions can create little talk tracks in our brain to get us all sorts of spun up.

Market Up: I’m so good at this investing thing. I’m going to be rich. I’m going to retire early at this rate.

Market Sideways: This is such a waste, my money is going nowhere. How do people make money investing?

Market Down: Why am I investing when it keeps losing me money? I should move to cash to stop losing money. I’m never going to be able to retire.

Not only does market movement create powerful emotions, but losing money in the market generates a pain response in our body. Studies show that investors feel the pain of losing money twice as powerfully as the joy of the equivalent gain. In other words, if you lose $10,000 the pain you feel is twice the level of joy you feel from winning $10,000.

Experienced investors will often use the line that “stocks are on sale” when markets drop and inexperienced investors ask if they should sell. While in theory stocks are cheaper, it’s really a bad comparison to buying an item on sale at a store. There’s no financial pain of loss felt by a consumer that’s considering buying a new TV that’s dropped in price.

Logic Or Emotions: Which One Controls Our Decisions?

But I’m a logical person! This concern about emotions getting in the way of investing decisions clearly is for more emotional people and not me. Right? Wrong. There’s more to decision making than just unemotional logic and reason.

In the book Switch by the Health Brothers they discuss two different decision making forces inside of us as complicated human beings: the thinking brain and the feeling brain.

The thinking brain is the logical, rational part of our brains. It’s the part running calculations and spreadsheet to determine how much house we can afford based on our budget, down payment, interest rate…etc. It’s the part of the brain at the grocery store buying the cheaper tuna fish based on unit price.

The feeling brain is emotional and is making decisions based on how we feel about the decision. It’s the part that walks into an open house for a home that you can’t afford and makes you say: “screw the budget, this feels like home.” It’s the part that sees that shiny black corvette on the car lot and now all you can think about is how awesome it will feel to drive that each day.

A wonderful metaphor for the power scale of these two decision making forces is an elephant with a human rider on top. The feeling brain is actually the massive, powerful elephant while the thinking brain is the puny rider on top.

man riding on gray elephant near trees
Photo by ফাহিম মুনতাসির on Pexels.com

That thinking brain rider may believe that they’re in control because the elephant often listens to their commands. However, when the elephant doesn’t agree with the command the rider quickly learns who’s in control and they’re just along for the ride. The feeling brain elephant is in control and if there’s a conflict between the two it’s going to win. Every. Single. Time.

We often falsely associate being a logical person with making our decisions using logic all the time. The truth is that our emotions and feeling brain hold the power and are the driving force in most of our decision making.

How You Can Avoid Investing Mistakes

Now that we understand that our logical brain is smart but along for the ride, and our emotional brain is unpredictable and in control, the way to avoid investing mistakes should become clear. We need to make our investing decisions when in a logical, unemotional state and then avoid any substantial decisions when emotions are involved.

Stop Watching The Markets

Stop watching the markets

Ever heard the phrase “out of sight, out of mind”? If you don’t see something in front of you, you are less likely to think about it. This rings true when it comes to the stock market.

Stocks are volatile by nature. If you have the habit of looking at the market performance daily, or even many times a day, you’re going to see that volatility.

The financial media knows this and loves to feed off of our emotions. Ever watch Jim Cramer?

Jim Cramer GIFs | Tenor

People like him and the main stream medio love to sensationalize when markets drop. They’re pretty quiet though when markets slowly march upward over time.

A big up event for a market or asset that you don’t own could give you FOMO and an impulse to buy something that you otherwise wouldn’t. A big up day for an asset that you do own could make you pile in more.

A drop for a market or asset that you own could drive the pain of loss making you consider more radical actions like selling all of a particular asset to cash. At a minimum it’s likely to create some level of stress and anxiety that wouldn’t be there if you weren’t aware that it was happening.

In full disclosure, I’ve gotten into the bad habit over the years of watching the markets daily. Pulling open my phone multiple times a day to see what the markets are doing somehow became a habit along the way. Probably from my days trading futures and FOREX where the market trades 24 hours a day from Sunday night to Friday evening EST.

I watch the US market that I own, but also have highly volatile individual stocks on my watch list that I don’t own or have any plan to own. I watch bitcoin, gold and oil whether I plan to invest in them or not.

It doesn’t drive me to change my asset allocation drastically but a big drop on occasion will have me pull from a sinking fund to buy more of something in my plan.

I don’t think of myself as very emotional but I can still feel something inside me as an initial reaction to a big market move. It’s not healthy and I need to break this habit.

So, I’m going to break the habit. I haven’t look at the markets for the few days now and it’s been really hard to resist the urge. But, that will get easier with time. Not looking at them has made it easier to avoid any tactical urges because I just don’t know what’s going on. I’ll have to come up with a healthier cadence but for now let’s go cold turkey for a while.

Have An Investing Plan

Have an investing plan

An investing plan maps out a strategy to get from where you are today to and endpoint that achieves a short or long term financial goal. It gives you some guidelines to work within so that you can resist the urge to do spontaneous things.

Here’s an example from my investing plan (there’s more to it). In the future I’ll go into more detail on how I arrived at all the details here. For this post, the key is that I have a macro asset allocation of 75%/25%. The 75% are all my higher risk assets – stocks, alternatives (real estate) and crypto. The 25% are my low risk assets mostly being bonds and cash.

I break this down into a more detailed asset allocation of US stocks, international stocks, alternatives and bonds/cash. In my case I then translated that into actual investments that I wanted to hold in my portfolio.

This isn’t the complete list because our 401k’s don’t quite have the same options but this gives you a general idea.

With percentages defined for each, and actual investments already chosen, you know how new money should be invested based on your plan.

Having an investing plan gives you a guide. It helps you stay the course and not make drastic changes that don’t align with the plan.

Automate Your Decision Making

A highly effective way to avoid emotional decision making is to avoid decision making altogether! If we setup automatic investing systems based on our plan we take ourselves right out of the regular decision making loop where we often mess things up.

Fortunate for investors, it’s very easy to setup automatic investments. Here’s an example of automatic investments setup for my 401k.

Vanguard, whose main issue is their antiquated user interfaces and systems has automatic investing although it’s only available for their mutual funds at the moment (not ETFs). Here’s an example from one of our accounts.

Some brokers offer automatic rebalancing to a target asset allocation. Or, at a minimum, notification that your asset allocation is X% off from the target so that you can go in and fix it.

Avoid Big Changes To Your Plan

Avoid big changes to your plan

Have you ever been in a car where someone treats the gas and brake pedals like an on/off switch? It’s terrifying. Racing to the next light then braking hard.

It’s also terrifying in investing when you treat your investing decisions as all or nothing like that on/off switch of a cars gas pedal. My stocks are killing it so I should sell all my bonds and go 100% stocks. Oh no, stocks are “high”, inflation is here and the market is correcting. I better sell all my stocks and go to 100% cash.

In the near term, none of us knows what the market is going to do. However, when people talk about making extreme changes to their plan it’s because they all of a sudden “know” what’s going to happen. Stocks are expensive, a big crash is coming. Interest rates are going to skyrocket in the future so bonds are going to get crushed and cash is trash.

This is often fueled by someone in financial media that speaks confidently about knowing the future. They don’t know for sure. The smart ones are making educated guesses. The not so smart ones are making wild predictions and often trying to sell you something off of the fear that they create.

That’s why you come up with an investing plan that’s broadly diversified. If you make adjustments to the larger plan it should be in response to your investing timeline changing, your situation or your risk tolerance. Not external stimuli like geopolitical events, inflation or the movement of the market.

If you do want to make a change, it should be something that’s well thought out over a period of time and a small percentage change compared with your overall portfolio. Make sure that you understand the reasons for the change and that they’re driven by your situation, not external events.

72 Hour Rule For Investing

72 Hour Rule Of Investing

The Frugalwoods have a great concept called the 72 hour rule to help you control your impulsive purchases. The concept is simple: if you want to make a non-essential purchase, you have to give yourself a 72 hour “cooling off period” to think about the purchase and make sure that you really need it.

I think this same concept can be applied to long term investing decisions. If you’re in this for the long term then there’s no change that’s must be implemented TODAY. I’m talking about changes to your plan, asset allocation or individual investment selections. Not normal investment actions that are inline with your current plan.

Instead, after you come up with a change to your investing plan or a tactical move that you want to make, sit on that change for at least 72 hours. That gives you time to ensure that emotions are not influencing your decisions and allows you to reflect on the new plan. If after that period you think the change makes sense, then go for it.

Your investing life will go on just fine if you think through any investing decision for at least 72 hours before going ahead and implementing it. You come up with an idea on Saturday and then think about it until at least Tuesday. The bigger the change, the more time that should be devoted to thinking through the decision.

Key Takeaways

  • Investing generates a wide range of emotions that will encourage you to take action.
  • Your emotional brain is more powerful than your logical brain opening the door for irrational decision making during times of high emotion.
  • Removing or reducing emotions from the decision making process can help you avoid investing mistakes. Not watching the markets, having a plan, automating the plan and having a cooling off period are all ways to avoid mistakes.

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Expenses Investing Saving Taxes

Health Savings Account (HSA): The Best Tax Advantaged Account

BLUF: The health savings account (HSA) is one of the best tax advantaged accounts that you can have. Use the tactics in this article to save big on taxes and create a money machine to fund retirement medical expenses.

Oh, it’s that time of year again. Benefits election time for all of us working those W2 jobs and for those using a variety of other healthcare sources. It felt like an appropriate time to talk about the amazing tax advantaged account that I and Mrs. MFI ignored for far too many years. I am talking about the Healthcare Savings Account (HSA)!

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Yeah, not the most exciting topic on the surface. You know what is exciting? Sticking it to the tax man and keeping more of your sweet sweet money. This account can also help you retire early and worry a bit less about long term care costs. Intrigued? Read on…

What am I going to cover? Three basic areas:

  1. HSA Overview – All the key foundational details about HSAs: What they are, who can open one, what you can buy with them and why they’re awesome.
  2. HSA Basic Tactics – What are some simple ways to take advantage of that account?
  3. HSA Advanced Tactics – Some much more creative ways that you can use this account to your advantage over the long term.

HSA Overview

If you already have knowledge of HSA’s feel free to skim through this next section. It’s dry, but necessary because it defines the rules around these accounts. The devil is in the details!

What Is An HSA?

Right from the IRS:

A Health Savings Account (HSA) is a tax-exempt trust or custodial account you set up with a qualified HSA trustee to pay or reimburse certain medical expenses you incur. You must be an eligible individual to qualify for an HSA.

No permission or authorization from the IRS is necessary to establish an HSA. You set up an HSA with a trustee. A qualified HSA trustee can be a bank, an insurance company, or anyone already approved by the IRS to be a trustee of individual retirement arrangements (IRAs) or Archer MSAs. The HSA can be established through a trustee that is different from your health plan provider.

https://www.irs.gov/publications/p969#en_US_2020_publink1000204023

Who Can Have An HSA?

Here are the requirements to qualify for an HSA:

  1. You are covered under a high deductible health plan (HDHP) on the first day of the month.
  2. You have no other health coverage except what is permitted (see the IRS here for details under Other Health)
  3. You aren’t enrolled in Medicare.
  4. You can’t be claimed as a dependent on someone else’s tax return from last year.

The key requirement for most is making sure that you have a HDHP. Not sure if you have one? Read here for how to tell.

Each person covered by an HDHP is allowed to have their own HSA account. Or, in a family situation, a single adult could have the family HSA and cover the expenses of the other spouse and dependents. There is no such thing as a “joint” HSA.

If you’re married and have a family plan then your spouse can have their own HSA if they’re covered by your family HDHP!

Quadruple Tax advantage

Why is this account awesome? So many tax advantages. HSA, oh how I love thee helping me stay tax free. Let me count the ways:

  1. Tax free going into your account if paid via a payroll deduction – No federal, state OR FICA taxes paid on the contributions.
  2. Reduces your taxable income – HSA contributions reduce your adjusted gross income (AGI) so you save taxes from your highest marginal tax bracket.
  3. Grows tax free – An HSA can be invested in stocks, bonds, ETFs and mutual funds and all growth is tax free. You can buy and sell within the account without any tax consequences.
  4. Tax free withdrawals for qualified medical expenses – As long as you use the HSA to pay for the IRS defined qualified medical expenses then the money comes out tax free as well.

An HSA is truly a special account.

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Who Can Use The HSA Funds?

More than you might realize. Qualified medical expenses are those incurred by the following persons.

  1. You and your spouse.
  2. All dependents you claim on your tax return.
  3. Any person you could have claimed as a dependent on your return except that:
    1. The person filed a joint return;
    2. The person had gross income of $4,300 or more; or
    3. You, or your spouse if filing jointly, could be claimed as a dependent on someone else’s 2020 return.

That means that even if you have partner #1 on a HDHP and partner #2 on a traditional HCP then you can use partner #1’s HSA for expenses incurred by partner #2.

Who Can Contribute To An HSA?

Anyone currently covered by a HDHP and has an open HSA can contribute money to it up to the annual limits.

How Much Can You Contribute?

The amount that you can contribute to an HSA varies each year so be sure to check to see what the latest limits are by searching for “IRS HSA contribution limits XXXX (year)”. The information in the tables below are for people that had plans for the entire year. Review the IRS website here for information on partial year contributions.

2021 HSA Limits Under Age 55 Age 55 or Older
Self Coverage$3,600$3,600 + $1,000 extra
Family$7,200$7,200 + $1,000 extra per spouse over 55
2022 HSA Limits Under Age 55 Age 55 or Older
Self Coverage$3,650$3,650 + $1,000 extra
Family$7,300$7,300 + $1,000 extra per spouse over 55

Unlike your 401k, employer contributions to your HSA DO count towards the annual max. For example, in 2021 if a single employee had an HSA and their employer contributed $1,000 to it then the employee could only contribute $2,600 more to hit the $3,600 annual max.

How Can HSA Funds Be Used?

What is reimbursable by an HSA? There are a LOT of things actually. Here is a selection of both common and unusual items that are covered:

  • Artificial Limbs
  • Birth Control Pills
  • Capital expenses to your home for medical care (widen doorways for a wheelchair, for example)
  • Dental Treatment
  • Eyeglasses
  • Fertility Enhancement
  • Guide dog or other service animal
  • Medicare Part B,D premiums
  • Menstruation Care Products
  • Nursing Services
  • Over the counter (OTC) drugs without the need for a prescription
  • Therapy
  • Transportation and Lodging to another place for the purpose of a medical procedure

Unfortunately, private health insurance premiums aren’t covered except in very narrow circumstances (COBRA). Sorry, no medical marijuana either.

Full list of qualified medical expenses here:

Be careful to not take unqualified distributions from the account before age 65. If you do those distributions are taxed as ordinary income AND subject to a 20% penalty. Ouch.

Do HSA Funds Ever Go Away?

No. To have and to hold, until death do you part. When you die your HSA will pass tax free to your spouse and they will enjoy the same tax free benefits. There are also

But what if I end up with more in my HSA account than I could possibly use? Easy, after age 65 you can withdraw money for non-healthcare expenses and it’s taxed as ordinary income.

HSA Tactics – Getting The Most Bang For Your Bucks

Now, lets talk about the fun topics. What are the different strategies that you can use to get the most of your HSA. I’ll present a variety of tactics and you can choose what best fits your situation.

I’m going to list these roughly in order from the more basic approaches and then heading to the more advanced and niche.

Use An HSA Debit Card To Pay For Expenses

Starting with the most basic approach. Save money in your HSA account in cash and whenever you have a qualifying healthcare expense, use your debit card to pay for it. The $4,928 listed below are all expenses that I paid directly from my HSA earlier in life.

It’s simple, convenient and is letting you use pre-tax dollars to pay for expenses that otherwise would be post tax. How much did that save me?

Well, our effective federal tax rate is about 15%. That means that we would have had to made about $5,800 in wages to pay for $4,928 in medical expenses net of taxes. $872 saved!

Investing With An HSA:

Saving money is great, but being FI minded we want our money to work for us. A beautiful thing about an HSA is that this isn’t just some crappy bank account where the money earns no interest. Oh no my friends, you can invest it!

You can connect the HSA to an investment account with firms like Fidelity (Mrs. MFI) or TD Ameritrade (Mr. MFI) and invest the money. It varies by HSA provider, but you generally need a minimum cash balance ($1,000 to $2,000) before they’ll allow you to start investing HSA money.

My HSA actually has two pieces: A cash account in a bank where all distributions are paid from and an investment account which are linked together but are operated by different companies. Mrs. MFI has a similar arrangement but with a different bank and investment company.

My work HSA is connected to TD Ameritrade and every paycheck it sweeps money to the TD Ameritrade invested HSA. I have the account setup to leave $1,000 (the minimum) in the HSA bank cash portion and sweep anything more into my HSA investment account.

Here are those auto sweep transactions happening every two weeks when I get paid.

That money can then be invested in whatever I choose on the platform. I’ve got the money invested in an ~80/20 split of VTI and BND. It’s a tax advantaged account so I can rebalance or change investments (sell) without any tax consequences.

Quarterly I’ll go in and make a purchase with the cash that’s accumulated. Looks like I’ve been slacking and have $1,280 accumulated that needs investing.

Clearly this year has been incredible unusual as far as US stock growth. YTD this basic invested HSA is up almost 50% or $6,000. Far more than I’m allowed to contribute to the account in a single year.

Vanguard for some reason has decided to stay out of this HSA market for the time being.

HSA Advanced Tactics

Now, for some fun stuff. How can you actually take the use of this fancy HSA to the next level and stack these benefits? Let’s explore that. I love nothing more than to find legitimate ways to game the system. Some of these ideas you can stack and use together.

Pay For Medical Expenses With A Cash Back Credit Card

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Photo by Mikhail Nilov on Pexels.com

A key thing to understand about an HSA is that you can reimburse yourself tax free from that account, regardless of how you pay for the medical bill.

Knowing that, why would you ever use an HSA debit card to pay for a medical expense? I’m a huge fan of credit card rewards so I put as much as possible on my cards. I use the Citi DoubleCash credit card for 2% cash back on everything. If you spend $3,000 a year on medical bills that’s still $60 cash back for nothing.

Then you can submit to your HSA provider for reimbursement of that expense from your account. Here’s a key point. Your HSA provider isn’t necessarily going to check that what you’re submitting for is a legitimate expense. The IRS is the one that may come knocking and ask for proof that these were legitimate expenses.

For that reason, it’s important that you keep sufficient proof that the bill that was paid by your HSA was for a qualified medical expenses. Here’s what the IRS says you need to keep for records:

Source: https://www.irs.gov/publications/p969#en_US_2020_publink1000204088

How should you keep these records? I’m a big fan of Google Drive. I recommend keeping a copy of record which has the details of the service, proof that you paid the bill and when it was paid.

Use Medical Expenses To Hit A Credit Card Sign Up Bonus

If you’ve read the blog then you know I’m a fan of credit cards for travel rewards. A key part of travel rewards is to open a card with a great sign up bonus (SUB) that’s paid when you hit a minimum spending level.

No better way to hit a minimum spending level than to charge medical bills to a new credit card. Then you can use your HSA to pay yourself back. Medical bills are a pretty good candidate for this since there’s a big lag between the service and the bill arriving. Plenty of time to apply and get a new card. The bigger risk might actually be that they take TOO long to bill you.

One thing to be aware of is that if you pay a bill with a credit card then you give up your ability to negotiate down a larger bill. So, make sure that you do that first before paying the bill.

Take a medical tourism trip and partially reimburse yourself with your HSA.

This one seems like cheating but it’s in the rules. If you have a trip that you’re taking for medical tourism purposes then you can pay for transportation and some of your lodging with your HSA. By that I mean that you’re traveling to another location for the main purpose of having a medical procedure done.

Mexico is popular for very cheap dental care so if you had an expensive surgery this would be a great option. Take the trip, save a lot on the procedure, pay for it all on your favorite credit card. Then reimburse yourself for part of the trip and the surgery with your HSA. How sweet is that?

Source: IRS Publication 502 – Medical and Dental Expenses, Page 14

Pay For Medical Expenses Out Of Pocket, Let Your HSA Grow

Up until now we’ve been talking about paying for your medical expenses out of the HSA because it’s all tax free. The next idea might seem counter intuitive but you could pay for medical expenses out of pocket and NOT reimburse yourself from your HSA right away.

Why might you do that? The power of compounding. If you constantly spend the money that you contribute to the HSA then that money never gets a chance to compound. However, suppose that you let those HSA contributions grow to $50,000. By the 4% you could withdraw $2,000 a year and have a high likelihood of not running out of money over 30 years.

A Secret Emergency Fund

Here’s another trick. If you pay for medical expenses out of pocket you can reimburse yourself anytime in the future from your HSA. For example, I spent $3k this year on medical expenses (not my best year) but paid out of pocket.

I have those receipts and 10, 20 or 30 years from now I can use those receipts and pay myself back that $3k. It’s like having a special investment account that I can draw on anytime in the future when I need it. I love safety nets.

Long Term Care Self Insurance

a man in white shirt standing beside an elderly lying on the bed
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One concern of many is the cost of long term care in our later years. It’s understandable as nursing homes can cost $100,000+ a year.

What if you saved diligently, didn’t spend that HSA and then let compounding do it’s thing? Say that a couple is able to save $100,000 in an HSA by the time they’re 50 years old and never contribute another dime. They pay out of pocket for expenses to do that.

If that $100,000 grows by 7% annually then when they hit 80 years old the accounts will be have $811,000! That’s a healthy balance to handle your long term care.

What if you don’t need that much money? Well, after age 65 you can withdraw HSA money penalty free and it’s taxed as ordinary income. Problem solved. Did I mention that it’s not subject to required minimum distributions (RMDs) either?

Use It To Cover Insurance Premiums

Maybe you aren’t worried about long term care but you are worried about other medical expenses in retirement. You can’t use an HSA for private healthcare insurance but you CAN use it for Medicare part B and D insurance after age 65.

Below are insurance options that DO qualify for HSA reimbursement. As always, these change over time so consult the IRS website for the latest rules.

  1. Long-term care insurance.
  2. Health care continuation coverage (such as coverage under COBRA).
  3. Health care coverage while receiving unemployment compensation under federal or state law.
  4. Medicare and other health care coverage if you were 65 or older (other than premiums for a Medicare supplemental policy, such as Medigap).

Action Steps:

  • If you have a HDHP and don’t have an HSA, open one!
  • Setup your account to contribute to it every paycheck. Even if it’s $10 a paycheck, get started.
  • Look into how much you need in your HSA to start investing.
  • Once you have enough to start investing, open an HSA investment account. Fidelity is one of the top providers.
  • Setup your HSA to autosweep funds to your investment account.
  • If available, setup your investment account to auto-invest the proceeds.

Additional Resources:

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